MALEKKO POWER Help/Advice
Category: Helpdesk · Tags: eurorackcase, eurorackpower · Posts: 41
#1 — Robotboot · 2019-02-08
I recently acquired a sizable case that I am ditching 2 smaller and upgrading to one case with room to grow. I will end up needing to install 4 Malekko Power’s. I am a total noob with how to do this but can follow directions and solder. Some mentioned running 2 board to each brick but i have no idea how to wire and or if this is a good idea. I am looking for help with possible wiring diagrams and what dc brick to get that has ample power for a growing system for video/Audio. I already have 2 of boards.
#2 — brendanleespengler · 2019-02-09
I had a similar question lately. I was told to only use one power brick per Malekko PSU. You can now get a ±12V 2A brick, which should cover 6u of video modules. The old bricks were only 1.6A, I believe.
#3 — Jesse · 2019-02-09
Have you peeped malleko’s website? They mention the specific cincon walwart that they recommend & link to it on Mauser.
It’s quite easy to install, again on the website they list everything you need on one of the schematic pdf’s… Like spacers & whatnot.
It’s very straight forward, if you get the fastlok connectors or whatever they’re called you’re just crimping some ends on 2 pieces of correct gauge wire & running it to a barrel jack. Other than that you’d be drilling holes using their template, installing standoffs and screwing the pcb in.
Only thing I could think of that’d be easy to screw up would be soldering wire to the barrel jack?
#4 — Jesse · 2019-02-09
Oh yeah and a switch, you’d wanna throw a switch in there… Or would you?
I didn’t. I just plug it in and it’s on. But I like my cases mega minimal
#5 — Robotboot · 2019-02-09
If it’s just one board one power brick I could follow the instructions.
#6 — creatorlars · 2019-02-09
You will want at least 6Amps @ 12V to power a Malekko power board. The power board’s output is up to 2.2Amps per rail, or 4.4Amps total. Some efficiency is lost to the input switchers, so 6 Amps is about what you want. If you could find a 12 Amp 12VDC power supply or DC brick, you could use that to power two boards in parallel! The brick we ship with the Vessel case is 8.34Amps, which has tons of headroom (a good thing, because performance drops if you’re closer to full load.) Note that the quality of the brick and its noise/ripple will definitely matter when it comes to your system’s power performance, so I recommend looking at good brands.
#7 — creatorlars · 2019-02-09
If you want laptop style bricks, it’s going to be hard to find a good one over 8 Amps. But you could potentially use a dedicated solution like this, which would be enough 12V DC power for 3x Malekko Power boards:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07C2WBR1L/ref=sspa_dk_detail_9?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B07C2WBR1L&pd_rd_w=XLQts&pf_rd_p=2bd81721-c115-4b8d-93a3-2ecd17466ded&pd_rd_wg=m2cI0&pf_rd_r=XPXKPW6G9CQGM4C96GJY&pd_rd_r=e7a4aa22-2cbd-11e9-876d-3113f2f58f1c $20.99 Link: Amazon.com: Switching Power Supply,DC 12V 20A LED Power Supply Universal Regulated Transformer 240W Adapter for Led Strip Lights, CCTV, Radio, Computer Project: Home Audio & Theater
I can’t speak for that model’s quality, and it would require some custom installation/wiring to make it work, but in theory it should do the trick.
#8 — brendanleespengler · 2019-02-11
I’m lucky I double checked power info here. Should have known to take advice from a Muffwiggler with a grain of sand.
#9 — Videoactive_Avocado · 2019-02-15
Ah! I was wondering about this with Chris Konopka…if a Hengfu would work as a Malekko power source…It could be built into the case then, and a fuzed switch installed to power the Hengfu… Thanks Lars!
#10 — creatorlars · 2019-02-15
Totally! Any 12VDC source will work, just look at the ripple specs and pick something good.
My vote is still for an Acopian Gold +/-12V Linear Power supply (TD-450, TD-250), but those are heavy and hot and wouldn’t work in most portable case configurations.
#11 — Videoactive_Avocado · 2019-02-15
Interesting, I thought I heard that the Malekko bus was less susceptible to psu interference… If we’re stuck w the same old problem, maybe its best to use a brick? Then the psu is out of the case, away from modules and patchcords…freer of induced noise…
#12 — creatorlars · 2019-02-15
Yes, the Malekko Power is less susceptible to PSU interference. It is less susceptible in proportion to how dirty the incoming power is though. So if you’ve got 200mV ripple on one brick and 100mV ripple on the other, you’ll get twice as good performance with the 100mV ripple brick.
I don’t think it will make a big difference if you’ve got a shielded switcher module (hengfu, etc) inside the case vs a brick outside. The main difference is how low ripple/noise the switcher or brick is in the first place. That’s why we supply a $45 Cincon brick with EMI shielding with Vessel, rather than a $10 knockoff.
But best of the best option beyond all of that is something like an Acopian linear power supply feeding passive busboards (like the LIBB.) It’s just not a practical solution for portable setups like most EuroRack cases these days.
#14 — creatorlars · 2019-02-20
The power limits should be printed on the actual PCB IIRC. There was a first run (V1) of Malekko Power at around 1600mA per rail, but most of the production has been with a revision that provides up to 2.2Amps per rail. I should update the doc to reflect that. Short story, I believe 2.2Amps per rail is correct unless you bought your Malekko Power from the first production batch back in 2015.
#16 — Robotboot · 2019-02-21
I have a question on the power load with the recommended Cincon. This is something that really confuses me in the modular world with a lot of people saying the board is rated x amount but you should not pass for example 80%. Does this apply to the malekko power with the 8.34 Cincon.
Each rail has 2.2 amps but can you use it all or is there a different limit.
#17 — creatorlars · 2019-02-21
The EuroRack power supply itself (not the DC brick) determines the max current rating supported. This is contingent on the input brick itself supplying enough current. For Malekko Power, you need an input brick supplying about 6 Amps @ 12V DC to support a full load on the EuroRack power supply. More current for the brick just increases the brick’s headroom, or supplies extra current for peripherals.
#18 — Robotboot · 2019-02-21
okay so with the 8.34 Cincon you can use the whole 2.2 per rail?
#19 — creatorlars · 2019-02-22
Both of these statements are true.
(1) Never use a DC brick below the recommended current rating (6 Amps at 12V.)
(2) You can always use the whole +/-2.2Amps per rail.
#21 — creatorlars · 2019-02-22
@desertmuseum Headroom applies to both contexts. Have 10-20% extra on both the DC brick draw and the EuroRack draw is always a good idea. Malekko Power is a great option with some wiggle room for a 208HP LZX system. (+/-2.08Amps estimated power draw max.) It was a challenge, but my design requirement was to make a portable EuroRack power supply that could handle any 208HP LZX system without headaches or worries with noise or current limitations.
The reason there’s an 8.34Amp brick with Vessel is so you have over 2 Amps of extra current. There’s an internal DC barrel jack inside the case, you can use it with those 2.1mm DC jumper cables (like used on guitar pedal rigs) to power modules with a 12V DC input on the back. So you can think of the power directly from the brick as “dirty 12V” and the power from the EuroRack busboard as “clean 12V.”
Whenever an LZX module has a largely unbalanced power load on the +12V EuroRack rail, we’re including an option to use a backpanel 12VDC input to power just the dirty/digital portion of the circuit. With the Vessel case, this saves current on your “clean +/-12V,” since the extra power is pulling directly off the DC brick instead of the Malekko power board.
For example, with Vessel case your power budgets are:
- 2.2Amps of “clean +12V” (EuroRack power, from Malekko Power board)
- 2.2Amps of “clean -12V” (EuroRack Power, from Malekko Power board)
- 2.34Amps of “dirty +12V” (extra current from the Cincon DC brick, unused by Malekko Power)
Memory Palace draws 440mA on +12V and 40mA on -12V when powered by the EuroRack (clean +/-12V.) If its DC barrel connector (for dirty +12V) is in use, it draws 400mA from the dirty +12V and +/-40mA from the clean +/-12V. So with Vessel:
- Memory Palace powered entirely by EuroRack +/-12V, you have remaining power budget left of 1.76Amps clean +12V, 2.16Amps clean -12V, and the unused 2.34Amps of dirty 12V.
- If the 12VDC dirty power input is used, you have remaining power budget left of 2.16Amps clean +12V, 2.16Amps of clean -12V, and 1.94Amps of dirty 12V.
Currently the modules supporting “dirty 12V” include Memory Palace, TBC2, Liquid TV and the Erogenous Tones Structure module.
#22 — Videoactive_Avocado · 2019-03-28
@creatorlars, Do you know the mV ripple of the Cincon brick for comparison? All I’m finding from their data sheet is ripple of 1%…does that mean 1% of 12v; so 120mV?
#23 — brendanleespengler · 2019-03-30
Perfect Circuit is having a sale this weekend and they have Malekko Power Supplies in stock (and I have some credit w them, heh). I have a 6U Elite Case with a Make Noise PSU that I’d like to switch out so I can expand my video modules. However, the specs, according to the PC site, says the power output is:
- Current +12V: 1.5 Amps
- Current -12V: 1.5 Amps
- Current +5V: 1 Amp
Does this mean it ships with a lower power brick? What should I do?
#25 — wiatrob · 2019-04-01
I can confirm that the Malekko’s PC have in stock are the newest 2.2A. I bought two of them during the last sale, and my queries prompted them to update the picture on the website, but not the specs…
#26 — brendanleespengler · 2019-04-02
Okay, the confusion continues. Hope this helps more clueless folks than just me. From Perfect Circuit today:
‘Thank you for reaching out to us. All the current stock that we have is hardware v. 1.3. We are expecting a batch of the updated units soon…’
This is confusing, though. Is version 1.3 the newer one with the higher rating? Should I order this one or wait?
#27 — creatorlars · 2019-04-02
V1.3 is the current version. I heard from DP yesterday that they are building more this week.
#28 — wiatrob · 2019-04-08
Better than the response I got which was that the ‘firmware’ was 1.3 :), the units Perfect Circuit has in stock are the 1.3 version which I only implied with my initial response.
#29 — brendanleespengler · 2019-04-08
Just got mine today! And, yes the 1.3 as you said @wiatrob. Along with my Escher Sketch, after repairs and a long weird journey in the hands of the postal service. Thanks so much for everyone’s help!
#30 — Videoactive_Avocado · 2019-06-22
So, I have installed 2 Malekko power busses in my new case. I am going to wire them with jumpers for cv and gate, from one buss to the other. Should I also install jumpers from zone to zone, within each buss because the zones are isolated from each other? …Is lzx selling the jumper cables any more? I may need more for a second case.
#31 — nerdware · 2019-06-22
Like you, I have 2 Malekko PSUs. I linked them with a single bridge cable and everything works fine. PRs in 2 zones, no other links needed. Just make sure you connect the cable to the right pins!
#32 — Dewb · 2019-06-23
Also installing 2x Malekko this weekend. I was able to fit all my bus-sync-only modules in one of the cases, so I can do RCA sync for the second case.
My understanding is that you don’t need to jumper across the zones; the zones’ CV and gate lines are connected.
This is not really a Malekko-specific question, but are people putting any protection or conditioning circuitry in between the panel power entry and the board’s spade connectors? I’m using this illuminated rocker switch and I’m not sure if a diode or filter caps would be helpful to prevent the switch LED return path from adding noise.
#33 — nerdware · 2019-06-23
I’m using the tta dual access module for power entry. This has switchs for both power bricks, so I can turn off the power to the modules in that entire cabinet when I’m not using them. I can also independantly power the top or the bottom PSUs for when I only need half the synth. However, the core module is in the lower half and many modules in the upper half require sync from it. So I tend to switch both on/off at the same time. I also have a master power switch for the whole rig in a power line conditioner.
#34 — Videoactive_Avocado · 2019-06-24
Got the rig powered up and some basic test patches run. Malekko is happy, mods are happy, images are super-clean! Thanks for the help. Yes, I installed a switched hospital grade power entry with fuzes and filters…taking no chances…
#35 — wednesdayayay · 2019-06-24
that sounds useful where did you find that?
#36 — Dewb · 2019-06-24
Oh yeah I’d also like to hear more about hospital grade power entries!
I made two 1U entry tiles for the two halves of this MDLR case (with no side cutouts.) Internal 2.1mm barrel dongle for “dirty” power for MP/Liquid TV/etc. Huge improvement in noise level vs. my old case, so it’s fine for now, but I like the idea of a fused & filtered upgrade.
#37 — Dewb · 2020-01-08
Mounting a Malekko Power on a sheet-steel panel isn’t hard. Assuming you’re drilling holes through, it’s easier than trying to anchor pocket standoffs in a wood case. > All you need is a hand drill, a half dozen machine screws and nuts, and 1/2” spacers. Malekko supplies a drill template in the documentation but it’s unfortunately not to scale and not downloadable to print at scale, so I made this one. If you can print it on 11x17 paper all you need to do is cut it out, tape it on, and use someth…>
#38 — nerdware · 2020-01-08
Yeah, I know. BTW, that’s a wooden case. I’m talking about a steel 19" panel. Drilling itself is outside my scope. Friends and relatives can drill aluminium for me. My late father drilled steel for me. (Keyword being late.)
If/when I want a steel panel drilled in the future, I know professionals who can do it for me. However, there’s more to it than just that. I know this from experience. That’s why I can confidently say I know my limits. I’ve tested them enough.
There are other issues. but I doubt you’re going to understand any of them. We’re not trying to solve the same problems. Please stop offering me solutions that work for you and your problems. They simply won’t work for me. While I appreciate your efforts to help me, they don’t actually help me.
As I explained above, I have solutions. Lars understands the complexity of this problem domain better than any of us, and is addressing them in the 3rd generation modules. I received one of them today - Topogram - and I’m currently using it in a Mantis case. When I get the chance, I’d like to test it powered from an RP40. If that works as well as promised, I can make future case/power choices based on that. Worst case, I go with an all-Vessel solution. That’s not as bad as it might seem to you. I can live with it.
#39 — Dewb · 2020-01-08
Hi @nerdware, I linked my post in this Malekko thread just for future reference, it wasn’t intended to be a further response to your post in the other thread. Just trying to curate our shared knowledge for everyone. Totally respect your sense of your capabilities, apologies if this came across otherwise!
#40 — nerdware · 2020-01-10
Ok, no problem.
BTW, has anyone else had difficulty ordering the 12V power bricks from Mouser? They tell me they require a VAT number due to CE restrictions on this product. This applies to both the bricks Malekko recommend. I asked Malekko for an alternative without this restriction but I never heard back from them.
This just another obstacle. I could just ignore the recommendation and use a random 12V brick with 8A of current. So, as I may very well not do any of this, I’m asking out of curiousity: has anyone encountered this obstacle? How did you work around it? Did you just use one of the 15V bricks?
Here’s another reason I love the Automata series. It looks like they’ll come with the right brick!
Otherwise, pfft. Same problem, same solution. Just some random 12V brick with enough current.
#41 — SPIKE · 2020-01-11
Blockquote
WISH i had this when i was installing my Malekko Power!
thanks for making that though!
#42 — Robotboot · 2020-05-16
Anyone able to help with how to wire in a dc jack to power memory palace and liquid tv with the dirty power that’s left over from the 8.34 brick. I followed the maleko instal with the easy clamps.
#43 — Robotboot · 2020-05-16
Is it this simple? I’m lost. I can follow instructions but my understanding is low.
#44 — dni_br · 2020-11-23
Hy. Is it possible to connect doepfer bus board to the Malekko power ?
#45 — rempesm · 2020-11-23
If the Doepfer bus board is passive, sure–just connect a 16 pin connector from the Malekko Power to the bus board. Don’t do this if the Doepfer bus board is powered. It probably won’t like it or worse.